There’s something about Skopje that makes me a tiny bit uneasy. There’s lots here to stroll around and look at, from the grand buildings to the large statues of significant individuals. Maybe I’m just yet to get used to the Balkans.
This morning, I left via the centre of town, and had a second breakfast with my last North Macedonian currency and set off.
The route took me past a stadium, the some large outlet style shopping complexes before an extended industrial area. I thought the industrial area would never end, and the mountains were well in sight before it did.
At one intersection, ladies with babies on their hips begged for money from passing motorists. They simply stood in the middle of the road with one hand out. Beggars rarely ask me for money when I’m riding my bike. They usually give me a big smile and a wave, and I do the same in return. That’s what happened here too.
Today was Sunday, so traffic was light with almost no trucks to speak of. For those reasons, I decided to stay on the well surfaced main road. The first twenty kilometres or so were uphill but very gradual and it was pleasant winding my way through the huge hills on either side.
Before long, I came to the Kosovo border and was quickly processed out of North Macedonia and into Kosovo. Immediately, there were food places all around, so I stopped for lunch. It was a fairly dusty area in the narrow valley, mainly due to what looked to me like a cement factory close to the centre. I wasn’t sure what to expect as I left, but was surprised to find a bike path for the few kilometres out of town.
Kosovo is one of Europe’s newest nations, still awaiting recognition but it’s also one of the poorest. My first impression agreed with that, but from there on, it’s been really impressive.
There’s a new freeway which goes up the same river valley as my road. At times, it towers over all but the mountains on either side. The road I was on, was good too, without being busy. There were a few tunnels as well. I avoided one by following the easy path around it – makes me wonder why they bothered with a tunnel in the first place.
For the second one, I had no option. I couldn’t see the end, so I got out my head torch and rode through. It only lasted a hundred and fifty metres as it curved around the corner. Hardly worth the head torch.
From there, I stayed on the increasingly busy road until about fifteen kms from Ferizaj, when I turned onto a newly paved almost empty road that took me directly into town. I was passed by a small tractor towing a cart with two boys sitting on the back. They wanted me to catch up and hold on to the cart, but I was happy to spin my way along on the flat.
I arrived at the hotel just as it started to rain heavily and I foolishly carried my loaded bike up a flight of stairs. I think I’ve made my back worse again. It feels like it did when it first happened a week ago – the last time I lifted my bike awkwardly while loaded.
For the rest of the day, I limped around, tried all sorts stretching but couldn’t get comfortable.
The thing that has struck me about Ferizaj is how friendly the place is. People seem pleased to have a tourist coming to their town, and they welcome me and wish me all the best for my trip.
