The first 5kms were lovely as I exited the lush green city of Almaty with it’s wide boulevards and trees simply everywhere. I took a separated bike path most of this way. Then the ugliness began…
The next 30kms was in constant traffic with everyone trying to squeeze in and get ahead. There were bus stations, cars stopping to pick up the hordes of hitchhikers and lots of truck traffic with barely any room for someone on a bike. After 37kms, I pulled over under the shade of a tree and had a snack. The traffic had thinned out but that meant it was faster.
My progress was slowed by a curious truck up ahead. I looked like it’s job was to blow the rubbish off the road and behind the safety rail. It’s hardly progress (unless you’re in a car dominated country). It did this effectively but stirred up such a cloud of dust that I couldn’t pass – I’d be invisible to cars and trucks behind. So, I had to pull over and wait for the dust to settle then proceed.
I diverted to Uzynagash for lunch of Doner kebab and coca cola. I know … It’s too early for Pepsi or coke because it gives you a sugar hit then leaves you depleted, but it was all they had.
From there, I finally rejoined the highway after a wrong turn that took me through the very busy market area. On the highway, the traffic was curiously light and I made good progress until I overshot the exit to Samsi, thinking there was an easier way.
Rolling Around had a good wild camp spot marked on the map and that’s where I was heading. At a petrol station, I realised my error, scampered down a small slope and joined a track back to the local road. It worked out perfectly and I rolled into Samsi 2kms later, found the small Magazin, and got some water for overnight plus some goodies. Lovely people at the shop to.
I plugged in the coordinates from the RA app and navigated to the spot. Pretty soon, two boys Keozhan and Keowan came up to say hello and gave me some sweets and a yoghurt ball. It was rock hard but something I’ll have to get used to.
I put the tent up and the owner came up to say hi and check things out. We had no language in common but babbled away for a while.
Soon, another shepherd came by with his flock and we had a nice simple broken conversation. He told me about a student doing the same as me who camped here too. (That was the guy who marked it on RA – thanks Tobias)
When all of the visitors had gone, I cooked up some pasta with tuna in a green curry sauce. (Yes Dennis, it wasn’t as bad as your abomination, but still not hitting any culinary heights).
After cleaning up and having a cup of tea, it was off to bed. It was really cold outside but I slept very well
Pasta with green curry sauce sounds brilliant. Its pasta with chicken tikka Masala you need to avoid.
I’m not sure that I want either of them ever again !