Today was another one where I wasn’t sure where I’d end up. I couldn’t be certain that any camping options would be open, and the accommodation options didn’t look interesting or reasonable.
None of that really mattered because I was interested to see the Corinth Canal. I’d work the rest out later.
I again had breakfast at the camping ground – yum. In talking about where to go with the guy running it, he said that Camping Isthmia would be open. Great news. Decision made, that’s where I’d go.
I had another chat with the Aus-Greek lady at checkout time and set sail for the Corinth Canal. Second breakfast wasn’t too far down the road and I had a coffee and croissants at the bakery. While there, two people on touring bikes went past and waved.
I finished up, took some photos and headed off again, only to find the two tourers about a km up the road. They were students from France and they had plenty of luggage. They are mountain climbers and have brought all of their ropes and equipment in their panniers. That doesn’t sound too amazing, but to get to the mountains, I’m sure they had to do plenty of climbing on their bikes – not easy at all, and that is amazing. Judging by the landscape I’ve seen here already, they’ll have no shortage of mountains to scale.
I thought there was something different about them too. Then I realised they were wearing climbing helmets not the bike variety. Anyway, we had a chat, and I set off and left them to finish some food.
They were soon in my rear vision mirror and we all rode at a similar pace for about 10 kilometres with the superb tailwind. I was impressed that these kids could consistently belt out 25-30km/hr with a load of gear. Before Corinth, I found a supermarket and stopped for another meal. Then as I approached Corinth, I spotted the best store in the world – Decathlon.
There’s always something that needs replacing and because the stores don’t always have stock, I usually drop in and see what they’ve got. I was in luck too. My trusty yellow shirt has recently started to get holes (I’ve worn it most days since June last year), and luckily they had a replacement but not in yellow.
Purchase done, I smugly packed it away before realising that I now had three t-shirts and all of them were red or close to it.
Onward to the canal …
I expected to ride close to it but that wasn’t possible. As well, Kai had told me that one of the bridges was closed but there was another close by. I saw some work happening at the northern most bridge and thought that was what Kai was referring to. I stupidly rode past the last working bridge and descended all the way to sea level to discover the bridge I wanted to use, was closed. I couldn’t even sneak across.
That meant a decent uphill into the wind, something I never feel like after having done 80kms already. But attitude is everything especially when there is no alternative, and the pain was soon over and I was soon photographing the amazing canal from the right bridge.
I still had more that six kilometres to go, mostly downhill, so it went by very quickly. I found the turnoff to the campsite and descended to the gate. Locked. Not open. Ferme. Geschlossen. Bugger.
I wasn’t happy as I knew any alternative would be uphill. On my left was a taverna with loads of tables and chairs. There seemed to be a resort for package tourists as well – judging by the buses that turned up and the herds that got off them. In the taverna, there was one old guy firing up the wood grill, so I asked him about the camping. It was a dumb question, I realised as soon as I asked. “No. Camping closed”. I also asked about hotels and the answer was still no. “Is there a place I can put my tent” ? He pointed to the rocky grassy patch at the end of the taverna. “And you are open tonight for dinner ?” “Of course !” Was the reply, and I exhaled with relief. A camping spot and a meal. What more could I want ?
I sat down and had a Pepsi l, bought some water from them and thanked the old guy profusely. He has family in Melbourne like most Greeks I’ve met.
His two sons turned up soon after. One was visiting with his daughter and the other manages the taverna for his mum and dad. He was a little surprised that his dad let me camp there, but all of them were friendly and welcoming.
The campground is usually open all year but it has new owners who have closed it down at least for the moment. It has clearly affected the tavernas business though. There were only three customers tonight.
As the sun started to set, I pitched the tent, got organised and returned to the taverna for dinner. I had souvlaki, tzatziki and salad and it was really nice. (I temper that by saying I was hungry and tired).
I went to the tent, cleaned my teeth and had a face-washer-wash to get the salt and sweat off me – always good.
Before I retired, the restaurant guy fed the leftovers to the local dogs who had been lining up and waiting patiently. They had announced my earlier arrival by barking but I had made a friend by feeding one of them a piece of souvlaki. So, they ate, then one saw me and started barking furiously. Oh boy, this could be an uncomfortable night. Then my “friend” bounded over for a pat. The barker followed and pretty soon, I had two friends for life.
I had a pretty good sleep after all of that.