Barmouth to Porthmadog

Today’s ride on Komoot

It was a rainy evening and morning, so I delayed checking out as long as possible.

The rain was due to clear as the day wore on, and as I left the hotel, it had stopped. Just to make sure, I went to one of the coffee shops on the main street and had a leisurely coffee. 

Rainy Barmouth

Unfortunately, the drizzle began as I left. I thought about going back but then I also thought that these conditions might become the norm over coming weeks, so why not get used to it.

I thought I had about 50kms today, but after checking again, it was only 35 or so. Hardly worth the effort. However, I’d just booked a place to stay and dry out, so 35 it is. It’s annoying because it leaves me with two days of riding before the ferry.

As soon as I departed Barmouth and got to the coastal road, I turned into driving rain and a headwind. The few people out and about, were walking their dogs – or were their dogs walking them ? They all have me looks of – you’re an idiot to be out there in this. Probably right. A smarter person would have lingered over another coffee, but where’s the fun in that ?

I rode up and down through beautiful farms bordered by dry rock walls and through really narrow lanes. The cars were good but there was never a question of the cyclist not getting out of the way. It was always expected and appreciated.

I rode through Harlech and there was a sign saying the street was the steepest in the world. No it isn’t, but I didn’t have the heart to tell them. There was also no way I was going to ride.up or down it.

Still stunning scenery

It was here that the route went up what looked like the second steepest road in Harlech. I didn’t feel like it, soi followed the almost empty B road for most of the descent.

Welsh mountain cows

As it turned out, after yesterday’s big effort, I was quite tired and after 25 kms today, I was completely out of petrol. The short sharp climbs of the last week continued but so too did the beautiful scenery.

As a result, the last 10kms were slow – the uphills definitely were, and the rest was completed in sunshine – hence, no hurry.

After three nights in pubs where the music and noise kept me awake, I booked a reasonable room àt a hotel chain – Premier Inns, so I might get a good night’s sleep – essential for recovery.

And speaking of recovery – I haven’t had much time off the bike since Easter, so I’ll plan some rest in Ireland and maybe replace some calories with the odd Murphy’s or Guinness.

Back down again

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