I had two nights in Basel at the Silo Hostel. What a great place. It’s just out of town and is a renovated grain warehouse that has won a number of awards. The building and the finishes are stunning… As well as expensive.
It’s also staffed by very nice people. Breakfast is included, and it’s brilliant. Home made Granola and yoghurt, rustic local bread and excellent coffee. I could live here.
On my rest day, I walked four kilometres to the Vitra Design Campus and marvelled at the place. It was the buildings, the gardens, the furniture, all of the design, but mainly just the vibe.
Anyway, the next day it was time to head to Colmar (near Strasbourg), a place I’d heard was really nice. It was a flat ride and had about thirty kilometres of overlap from my route south last year.
I left Switzerland, briefly entered Germany and spent the day in France – where I’ll be until I get the ferry from Calais. It was so good to be back in France. Immediately people were saying Bonjour and the drivers were great as always here. Things only improved after I stopped at a small boulangerie and stocked up on pastries and a baguette for later.
I love the language that the French use in signage. Where we would have a sign saying – No lights in tunnel, they’ll say – Absence of luminescence or sometimes – absence of visibility. And for – Give way, they’ll have something like – cede the right of passage. It’s far more dramatic and poetic and I love it.
The route was definitely a tad boring but I was happy with an easy day and to eat french food again.
After a while, I recognised the scenery and spotted the park where I’d stopped and made a coffee last year. A little further on, I did the same. I’ve been out of the mid-morning coffee habit for many months. Last night, I’d reread Clare’s (of Miles and Clare fame) blog about their time in the nearby Vosges mountains. That’s where I’m heading tomorrow.
Stopping in a park or in the shade of a tree and boiling the billy for a coffee and french pastries is a fantastic habit. I learnt it from Miles and Clare last year and kept it going for many months. In southern Europe, a coffee and croissant is only a couple of euros and I love the stand-up cafe bars in Spain and Italy. It’s part of the experience so I was very soon out of the make-your-own habit.
Anyway, I’d made good progress and with a full belly and being fully caffeinated, I set off for the last forty kms. The route took me through the middle of Neuf-Brisach. I’d been there last year but this time, they had some cool sculptures in an area outside the old town walls. It’s a well preserved old town.
From there, the route diverged from last year’s so I was back discovering places I’d never been.
Entering Colmar, I rode to the campground which was full. However, the told me that if I could squeeze in, in a particular area, then I could camp there. I found a spot, but it was the most uneven rutted patch of ground in existence, so I politely exitted and booked a place in the city.
It was a great place but unbearably hot all afternoon and evening.
Colmar is a very nice town but it seems like it’s set up for tourists – You know the type of place – everything is artisanal or a speciality of the area, be it food or souvenirs. I wonder how many regular people there are in some areas. So, in short, beautiful but not my kind of place. Glad I went though.
