There wasn’t much reason to hang around but I still dawdled as I only had about 45kms to the next camping ground.
The tent and my bike were covered in brown dust in the morning. Days later, I’d find out that this was dust blown in from Africa and that Athens was affected too.
I often say I’ve had an uninteresting day. This one was nice without being wildly fun or otherwise. I tried to get a Greek Sim card but Vodafone was too expensive. I tried Vodafone because I’m sick of Three, the UK Telco. They’ve let me down badly in the past a couple of times and I sincerely want to ditch them but, apart from Lithuania, Sim cards have had something like a twenty euro activation fee. I’ve now found that I can give Three, ten pounds a month for twelve GB so I shouldn’t complain.
I still don’t like them. Sometimes in a new country, it takes half a day to work.
Back to the ride …
The day was actually pleasant even into the strengthening breeze. I stopped for a coffee in a small restaurant by the water. There were two people dining and I went inside and asked for a Greek coffee. The guy in charge was as drunk as a skunk. I’d say it’s his regular state, as he seemed to be able to operate the place quite well. The chef completely ignored him. He carried a few plates of food from the kitchen, across the road, and over to the diners – they’re in the picture at the top. It was pure poetry in motion. He perfectly shifted his weight and corrected as he swayed and stumbled his way to the table, then continued to sway as he put the dishes on their table. It seemed smooth and well practiced and it looked almost choreographed.
To add to the humour of the situation, he looked like a shorter version of a friend of mine – Tom Doolan. It was fun to watch.
I got to the Camping ground at Akrata Beach and the wind was really strong. It had been in my face most of the day but it wasn’t too bad. Right now, it was really getting strong.
I went to the restaurant area to register, and the lady there had a slight Aussie accent. She picked mine immediately. It turns out that she was born in Sydney and lived there until she was twelve or thirteen. She complained that cyclists only ever stay for one night – and that was my intention too.
I went to find a campsite and found another cyclist – Kai from Germany. I camped next door to him and had a great chat over a beer and dinner. Dinner is a big topic here. The family cook different dishes every day. Tonight, I had slow cooked beef with small onions in a tomato-ish sauce. It was beautiful food and I wish I could remember the name.
The campground is really well run and really friendly. The owners are lovely people and their son is the same. He works there too. The food is awesome. For breakfast, I had an excellent coffee, a croissant and a bowl of yoghurt, honey and walnuts – Gee it was nice.
As I mentioned, I had a great chat with Kai who is riding back to Leipzig over the next few weeks. Like most cyclists I meet, he’s a great guy. We talked for a long time about our trips and what we do, our bikes etc. I really wish him well, I’ll follow his journey and stay in touch.
Another day in Akrata Beach
Yes, I really couldn’t leave. The wind overnight was so strong and stayed that way all of the next day. If I had left, I would have had a crazy headwind and dust all day. By staying, I ensured some excellent food, friendly chats with the owners and campers AND a tailwind the following day. It was a no-brainer which is something I’m good at.
I slept in, had the aforementioned breakfast, said goodbye to Kai and lazed around.
I walked into the village over the creek, for some lunch too. I tried to get across the stream without getting wet but knew I wouldn’t make it and went the long way. That added an extra km or two to my walk unfortunately. I had lunch in one of the few small places that was open.
It was a horrible day. I needed a spray jacket to walk on the opposite side of the road to the beach, as the strong wind blew spray for nearly thirty metres inland. On the way back, I jumped the small stream on the beach but dragged one foot in the water on the way and got one foot a bit wet. It was a small price to pay for a much shorter return journey.
Back at the campground I cleaned a days dust from my tent, knowing I’d need to do it again in the morning. Everything it seemed, had dust on it. I’m looking forward to Athens where I can wash my clothes.
Dinner was again restaurant quality. This place is awesome in every way. It’s one of the best camping grounds I’ve ever been to – the only downside was the gravel I camped on. It killed my knees when I was in the tent packing up
