I had a very slow breakfast at a nice cafe in Costa Nova. I ordered a couple of pastries and a strong coffee with milk. The pastries initially tasted like yesterday’s left overs but in the end, I loved them. The coffee was nine tenths milk. Yuk, I couldn’t drink it. So, I ordered a Pingo which is a macchiato. Superb. I needed another so I could chomp through the large pastries. In the end, I really enjoyed it all.
When it was time to pay, the lady said – four euros twenty (about $AUD 7). For three coffees and two big pastries ? I twice asked if that was enough, but she was sure.
I then followed the southern arm of the Aveiro Lagoon for quite a few kilometres, most of it on a nice dirt road. The day couldn’t have been better. The sky was almost cloudless, the day was warming up, and I was on interesting quiet roads along the Atlantic coast of Portugal. This Moment indeed.
At least it was warm in the sun. I went past a village called Vagos which has propeller from a wind turbine as a monument in front of the town which is a bit weird. If that’s the most exciting feature of the town then I’m worried for the inhabitants.
I joined up with a marked bike route on a narrow but well surfaced road a couple of blocks from the main road. It was semi rural here, with the large blocks backing onto my small road. That lasted for a while and then it was time for a change.
The route was meant to take me through a pine forest, but I suspect that the trees had been felled some time ago. The road was gun barrel straight with a perfect newish surface and very few cars. I passed the 25,000km mark along here and wouldn’t you think that I’d get some respect from the local drivers as a result ? Not a chance.
Portuguese drivers really haven’t endeared themselves to me – which is strange because the people are wonderful. It just shows that once someone gets in a car, there’s no predicting how they’ll drive. They just drive too close to me and too fast. In contrast, the Spanish were exemplary, but cross the border and all hell breaks loose. They’ve got plenty of time to redeem themselves but so far I’ve seen loads of impatient crazy driving.
Back to the ‘forest’. Many of the plants that were left looked really familiar. There were wattles and eucalypts everywhere. Parts of this area looked like typical scrubby, sandy vegetation from Aus.
The bike path turned left but Komoot said to go straight ahead. Not wanting to offend the navigation gods, I meekly complied. I did check about the road surface, and Komoot insisted that it was sealed. Immediately, it turned to a rocky, potholed, bumpy road that was probably last sealed last century. I thought immediately of Poland.
It didn’t last too long though and I was soon going through another village and heading for the coast. I knew there were a couple of hills on the way but hadn’t paid much attention. They were short sharp climbs along a stunning piece of coastal road by the cliffs.
Just beautiful. There was also the remains of a mine and plant, right on the coast. There was a short and sweet downhill then a few kms on as bumpy bike path and esplanade to the hostel.
The guy who runs the hostel is great and full of useful information. For instance, the bridge over the river is being fixed, so bikes aren’t allowed. There’s a ferry though – at 8:20 and 11:00 – neither of which particularly suit me. So 8:20 it is. My earliest start in a long long time. Let’s hope I hear that alarm
