Google told me that it was zero degrees this morning when I left. My GPS said 6 but I suspect Google was more accurate – my nose and ears agreed.
I went to an ATM but baulked at the 7 euro fee to use it, then went and had a coffee at the Roma Cafe on the way to the river. That done, I set off in the seriously crisp air around León. I was well prepared but didn’t go over the top with too much gear. I had tights on under my long riding pants but had other gear ready to deploy 😁 – extra gloves, beanie and down jacket. Luckily they weren’t needed.
As I left town, I saw the snow on the mountains. That explains the temperature, but tomorrow I have to go through those mountains.
After a while, the path turned off the road, was paved for a while, then became dirt and gravel for quite a few kilometres. Along this section, the puddles still had ice in them.
I saw a few pilgrims walking the Camino between here and Leon. Usually every two kilometres, there’d be one or two.
The path passed through a few villages and crossed the Old Orbigo bridge which is famous for the legend of Don Suero and his duels with Knights in order to free himself. It’s a very long bridge to fight people on.
I then went beside the main road for many kilometres before cresting the rise that overlooks Astorga. There’s a monument there, where pilgrims leave a stone from their own country. Seems pointless to me. I wonder what they do with them ?
I rode into Astorga and stopped at a small square near the centre, sat down and looked for an open Albergue for the night. The first one was full but the second was open. My problem was that I couldn’t find it on the map and the people only spoke Spanish (which is fair enough). After plenty of googling and searching, I worked out where to go.
I had to go through the town – it’s another beautiful place. The hostel is nice and full of interesting people. I didn’t expect many people to be here, but there must be at least 30.
The Christmas lights came out tonight and just like León, the place is spectacular.
