On paper, today looked very easy – slightly downhill and on paved surfaces, and about 65 kms. In reality the first part was easy but the second part was along more difficult surfaces, and overall it was pretty hot and boring.
It was a forced slow start due to the dampness around and therefore a fairly wet tent. It all dried out once the sun poked its head above the trees surrounding this fantastic campground. I say fantastic because it was quiet and beautiful. The place is terraced and the sites themselves are flat and really grassy. That’s camping nirvana and something I haven’t seen much of for a while. Most importantly, it wasn’t full like the last two places I’ve been to. They even sold pastries for breakfast.
So, I had coffee, pastries, sat around, packed and was away around 10am. I went into town to visit the local boulangerie – closed on Monday, as was the next, and the next. Aaaagggghhh
Luckily, there was a Lidl up the road and I stocked up for second breakfast and lunch (which seem to be merging these days). I wish my french was better. Instead of buying a traditional or speciale baguette, I got a fruit and nut one but didn’t realise until lunch time. D’Oh.
Out of Ligny-en-barrois, it was easy along the well paved canal path. I didn’t realise that there would be too much canal riding today, but it was close to 100 percent.
As I mentioned, the first part was easy and as the clock neared 12pm, I started to look for a shady place near the path for lunch. 1pm came and I started to get desperate. Then I saw a birch forest (plantation) on the other side of the canal, and a bridge up ahead, so that’s where I went. It wasn’t celubrious but it was shady and the forest made it nice and cool. Then I started on the fruit loaf !! It makes a surprisingly nice combination with Bayonne Jambon and red pesto. I was clearly hungry.
From there, the route deteriorated until it was like two single tracks with overgrown grass, reeds and sometimes patches of stinging nettles and the occasional thorns. Sometimes there was a third track in the middle, clearly made by bicycles avoiding puddles of water. The (underlying) surface would have been bitumen many years ago but now it was broken up asphalt, gravel and potholes with puddles from the recent rains. I got sick of it as I neared Vitry-le-François.
When I had lunch, I booked an Airbnb as there was no camping close to town. I went there, cleaned up and thought I’d check the town centre out. And I was surprised.
Vitry-le-François isn’t on the usual tourist trail but it’s the sort of place I love. It’s not full of tourist related things but full of normal people doing stuff. Throw in a really impressive old church an other buildings, some archways and walls and you’ve got a really nice place. It’s not as stunning as Colmar but it’s the sort of place that bike / slow travel lands you in. I’ve been to many places like this, and each time, I have a great experience. People are friendly and relaxed and some are surprised that a foreigner is there. I see these places as the highlights of my European trip. Same goes for Asia actually.
The main square is big and has kids play equipment, inflatable slides, fountains etc. It also had the local drug dealer, but let’s ignore that along with his dodgy clients.
The square has a few bars / cafes in the shade, so I sat down and had a refreshing post ride beer. It was very nice, then it was off to an Asian restaurant for dinner. I’m living it up tonight.
