Hills today ! Yuk – and I awoke feeling the worst I had for some time. I would be a snot factory again today. Luckily Dennis was well in front of me and out of range as I struggled up the hills in the latter part of the ride.
Another lazy start today. We didn’t have too far to go and we were waiting for the worst of the weather to pass. As every store was closed on Sunday, we had to go out for breakfast, and there was a place open about 20 metres from the apartment. A great start consisting of a toastie – yes ! I’m back on the toasties again – and a Cafe Noisette.
That’s the french equivalent of a macchiato and we discovered it while trying to describe a macchiato, back in Fontainbleau. That was a great discovery, and kudos to the Barista. His colleagues never suggested it in my first week in the country, despite my flowing description of what it was.
The ride out of town was beautiful as we climbed up to a rail trail complete with well lit tunnels, views down the valley and some minor drizzle. This was great riding on the Voie PLM, quiet and beautiful. The tunnels were very well kept and had motion sensors that turned the lights on as you entered. Very civil these French.
We left the Voie PLM – no idea what it stands for – and went onto some quiet country roads, hoping for second breakfast in some boulangerie along the way.
We pinned our hopes on Chatillon, but everything was shut but we expected something open in Doucier but as we rode through, everything was closed until Dennis found a restaurant open on the outskirts. The chef was American, the service fantastic and the food absolutely spot on for two hungry and cold cyclists. We had a sort of thin pizza thing with some local cheeses, tomato and sausage.
And another please !
We’d made it to the half way mark by about 2pm, and would be climbing for the rest of the day – but with full stomachs, plenty of light and a stash of Werther’s Originals to get us over those hills.
We stopped in La Chaix-du-Dombief on the steps of the local war memorial. It was nearly Anzac day in Australia by that time after all.
I struggled all afternoon. We booked an Airbnb and decided to look for a supermarket so we could have a home cooked meal again. We found one a couple of kms down a steep downhill run, and loaded up. We then realised that the apartment was a km and a half back up there hill – blame me, I’m the navigator, but I’m a big picture guy. What’s 1.5km in the scheme of things ? No big deal.
My legs thought otherwise; I had nothing in the tank. Having expected to coast downhill to the apartment, I think my brain wasn’t expecting any more pain, and protested from the first pedal stroke.
It even rained on the way. The apartment was ok – nicely set out but strangely renovated with a few strange details, including a shower that shot water out at 90 degrees to the wall, the world’s most uncomfortable couch (they definitely matched the bed) and a few basics missing. It had the most important things though – some warmth (eventually) and dinner (served before the place warmed up).
Dinner was spaghetti with mushrooms, onions, pancetta and ham / lardons in a bolognaise sauce. I ate two full helpings and had to stop myself eating more.
If the bed had been long enough or comfortable enough I may have had a good night’s sleep. All in all though, the day was another great day of riding, albeit with more pain than the previous week.