I lingered in Luang Prabang and had a long talk to Andy the owner of Mali House. He’s the right guy for the job of running a guesthouse for sure.
Today’s ride was short, so there was no rush. It’s hard to leave a place like LP with it’s nice ambience, people and food. The place really has something which I’ve noticed more this time.
So, it was a couple of coffees in the morning market then some breakfast overlooking the Mekong and a smoothie – last one for the next few days.
Packing was easy but I realised I hadn’t applied for my Vietnam e-Visa, so I tried to do that. I ran into the usual issues of uploading photos that were too big, got around that and then I hit the Visa Card verification issue again. I’d almost forgotten about this one. This is where the good folks at Visa want me to confirm the transaction using my Aus mobile number – I don’t even know where the Sim card is. The last time it happened, I was trying to buy a $15 ferry ticket and simply couldn’t do it.
I gave up, but arranged with my kids for them to pay later on.
After the ride, I went to a different ‘official’ website which looked dodgy but turned out to really be the official Vietnam visa website. I’m lucky like that. No verification on this one. All done and dusted in a few minutes. It’s supposed to take 3 days so I have a few up my sleeve before I need it.
The ride was uneventful but leaving LP, I realised I had almost no money. That was the other thing on my to do list 😁. Found an ATM around the corner, then off. Apparently, ATMs in rural Laos are unreliable.
Over today’s only hill, I came to a village and immediately, I thought ‘this place looks quaint’, and as I continued, I recognised it from my last time in Laos 7 years ago. That time, I was on a bus and I thought the village was a complete dump, so what’s different this time ?
I’m sure that I’m the one who’s changed and not the village. I’m pleased I could appreciate it more this time and wonder how many of us would still think the same.
I crossed paths with the new railway a few times today and saw some more boat races / practice as I neared my destination. I’d read some blogs and also been warned about the guesthouses and restaurants in Xieng Ngeun being pretty basic, so I rode through what I thought was most of the stretched out town to suss out the best spot. I found a guesthouse that’s better than basic, just a few minutes walk to about 5 restaurants which all looked great. Perhaps railway construction has improved things.
It’s only now that I realise that Xieng Ngeun itself is another 500m down the road, so I’m happy I pulled up short !
Regardless, this is still a junction town for highways 4 and 13, and I had dinner tonight overlooking that dusty junction with a cast of cars, motorbikes, trucks and dogs playing their parts in my evening’s entertainment.
I chose the smallest restaurant run by a husband and wife team who laughed and laughed when this westerner somehow ordered the wrong thing and as takeaway. My sign language can’t be improving.
All was sorted out with a smile, and the pork fried rice with omelette, sprinkled with fresh chilli and fish sauce was memorable. I’m betting they’ll be open for breakfast first thing tomorrow.
