Having stayed directly opposite the entrance to the ferry port, it was going to be a simple task to get across the Strait of Messina to Villa San Giovanni.
I had coffee and some breakfast over the road then went to the ticket office, to be told to go-to the next entrance up the road. It was about 500 metres away. With ticket in hand I joined the car queue and was then sent to the front exactly in front of the first ticket office. Riding a kilometre never felt so pointless.
The ferry ride was uneventful. Apparently, they are going to build a bridge but I doubt anyone is holding their breath for that. The ferry industry would have a lot to lose.
Villa San Giovanni wasn’t particularly inviting – at least not the part that I saw (eyesore, haha, pun intended). A few kms out of town, that all changed.
The steep rocky hills beside the sea were stunning as the road wound it’s way between them. This was great cycling with very little traffic, mainly flat, no wind – just perfect. It wasn’t to last though. Today had a steep 480 metre hill in the middle.
The up started at Bagnara Calabra and it was here that I met a French family (parents and three young kids) on their way to Sweden and Norway by bicycle. You read that right. There’s something about the french and adventure.
Etienne and his wife are three weeks into a six month journey which began in Malta. We’ve actually done a similar route from there. The kids are riding their own bikes with panniers with the youngest being able to hitch his bike to mum’s for some help and safety. Etienne also has a trailer. I can barely imagine the logistics involved. I struggle with looking after myself but balancing the cycling with the health, dietary and emotional needs of their children is a big task. Nicer people, you won’t meet. They’re all friendly and talkative and I’m sure their adventure will be life changing and memorable for all.
They went past me as I was having lunch in the town part way up the hill. Then I caught up with them near the half way mark of the climb. It was a tough steep climb and they were all very brave and tough to attempt it, considering there was a train.
The views as you’d expect, were amazing as I went up and up and up. There wasn’tuch traffic at all. The road went up 500 metres over 10kms and was consistent the whole way. Komoot on the other hand was a pain in the butt. The road went up through plenty of switchbacks, but Komoot tried to send me up steep sets of stairs between switchbacks. That’s hopeless. The app really struggles in hilly European villages, and for three days in a row now, it hasn’t been particularly helpful.
Anyway, the top of the hill came soon enough, and I got set for an epic downhill which turned out to be.on the old road – perfect. I was flying down the road when I saw two other bike tourers coming up the hill and stopped for a chat.
Agathe and Max (@pommeroule) are on their honeymoon and are heading to Sicily then Tunisia and Algeria, Morocco etc (during Ramadan). Of course they’re French ! We had a great chat and they gave me some information about the next few weeks of my journey. Absolutely lovely people and I’ll follow their journey with interest. (I looked into doing this same trip but didn’t know that it was possible for me to get an Algerian visa, and I didn’t want to travel during Ramadan – I like to eat too much 😁).
Soon after, I stopped in the village of Seminara for a quick drink in a cafe. As I left, I heard a band playing and saw a funeral procession through town. Agathe had warned me about some dogs just after the village and they were waiting for me but didn’t wake up in time, and the chase didn’t last long at all.
The last part of the ride into Gioia Tauro was along one of the worst roads I’ve ever ridden. It was full of deep potholes, ruts, puddles, mud, patches of bitumen … Again, it made polish roads seem positively smooth.
I had booked a BnB but Google sent me to a different spot – only a couple of hundred metres away but still not good enough. I though Google.may have been in cohoots with Komoot. As it turns out, I had to check in up the road from the BnB anyway. Luckily the guy was out side waving at me or I’d still be searching for the place.
I think Gioia Tauro is more famous for it’s vowels than anything else. I didn’t find it inspiring at all. It reminds me of a Dennis Cometti classic “out to Koutifides … more vowels than possessions today”. Love it.
