I had a decent climb to do over the next couple of days, but the weather was getting even colder and very wet up on the mountain. I searched for a train to catch but none allowed bikes from here. Finally, I found a bus at 4pm so I had the day to spend in Ponferrada.
Any other time, that would have been great, but today, it simply rained solidly all day. I’m beginning to think it’s following me wherever I go. I walked around for an hour in the rain and then realised that one of my goretex shoes had sprung a leak. They’d been waterproof for two months but now the right one seemed to hold water and squelched with every step. You can hear me coming up the street a mile away. It’s a sound effect that makes people turn their heads to find out what’s making the annoying noise and it happens every time my right foot hits the ground. Not that I care about that. I care more about my wet right foot and sock.
To get on the bus, I had to remove the front wheel and bag the bike or wrap it in cling film so other people’s luggage doesn’t get dirty. This is a requirement of the transport company. At the bus station, there was a kiosk that sold cling film (of course there was). So I prepared the bike, and as I went to load it, the guy said to drop the seat post. That was pointless as there was very little other luggage,plenty of room, and the position of the seat post was immaterial. So I did the dithering old man thing for about 30 sec – couldn’t find the tool, unzipped some compartments in the frame bag etc, while the driver waited and tapped his toe. After 30sec he just said to put the bike in the bus. It’s worked every time on buses and trains when there are ridiculous rules like that. At least I didn’t have to bribe him like in Malaysia.
The bus ride was notable for two things – how wet and cold it looked on the way up the mountain. I’m so glad I didn’t ride. Correct decision.
When I arrived in Santiago de Compostela, it was more than ten degrees warmer than in Ponferrada. I felt doubly vindicated and was looking forward to being a tourist here.
Friday in Santiago de Compostela
I moved hotels in the morning, dodged some rain and went to look at the Cathedral. The queue was way too long, so I walked around and had a good look outside.
Video was the only way to show the size of the cathedral building because I couldn’t fit the whole thing in one shot. Problem was that there was a kid that started screaming every time I started the video. I tried four times, she screamed every time. That kid is lucky to be alive. Fifth time lucky, got the video and the kid survived.
The queue to get in, stretched for about 80 metres or more, so I decided to come back some time later. I walked through the beautiful old town and passed quite a few lottery outlets – each with their own 10-20 metre queues. Putting all of that together, says that on religious feast days, people like to visit the church and get a few scratchies. I don’t know what else is on their agenda.
Saturday to Pontevedra
I had some breakfast at the hotel. It’s small but very nice. Then I retrieved my bike and packed it up in the rain. It was only meant to be very light rain if at all, but after riding away, I was very wet very quickly. The thought of riding another sixty kms in increasingly heavy rain didn’t thrill me, so I made the easy decision of catching the train to Pontevedra instead. I don’t have a problem with using public transport on this section of my trip. My only objective is to be in southern Portugal in two weeks time, so I’m not particularly bothered about what parts of Spain and Portugal I visit on the way. Having said that, I’d like to see Porto and check out the big waves at Nazarre. With this weather, trains and buses are my only guaranteed option for getting there. After that, without deadlines, there won’t be much need for trains and buses as I ride east.
In Pontevedra, guess what … it rained constantly. I’m staying at the small Slow City Hostel near the centre of the old town. I went for a walk (or squelch) around the town but walking in the rain gets very dreary very quickly.
