Reichenau to Český Krumlov

What an absolutely fantastic day. It started with a home style breakfast with the friendly people at the Gasthof and finished with the stunning sights of Cesky Krumlov.

In between was a lot of up and down, a border crossing that was purely informative, a closed track that would have been a great shortcut, some stunning towns along the way and a refreshing ride through the forest.

On my second day back on the bike, I was hoping for less strenuous terrain but the climbing was nice and the few hike-a-bikes were fine. Czechia has delivered in spades and it’s only day one here.

At breakfast, I met an Austrian couple, Mikel and ?, Who had the same destination today. Ominously, Mikel said that they wouldn’t be following the ‘official trail. He said that the part beside the river was extremely hilly and they would take the quiet main road into Cesky Krumlov. I should have looked at the route again. I thought he was talking about the very last section. Sadly, he wasn’t. As soon as I hit the river, the road went up and down like crazy. It was definitely walking time up some of the hills and I envied the geriatrics on eBikes as they zoomed past (not really, just temporarily. I much prefer human powered travel to what they are doing).

I had coffee and a small second breakfast after 10kms in Bad Leonfelden – a nice town with a quiet central area. That is, until church finished, then it was like knock off time at a Nike Factory. I don’t mean they were young, just in a hurry.

Then it was some solitary riding through farmland and forests to the border. It’s a Clayton’s border. There’s just a sign telling you where you are. I can’t help but think what it used to be like.

The next part was through the forest until I emerged at Vissy Brod. It had shops, well, it had a supermarket where an Asian girl taught me how to say thankyou in Czech. I’ve since forgotten – of course. I had lunch in the park, had a call with Minou, then headed off thinking that the hard part was done. That’s what the map said, but clearly, Mikel knew better.

What followed was really nice. A stunning village, then more climbing.

The route was mainly on paved roads and trails but Komoot (we’re best friends these days) sent me down a great shortcut. It was a dirt road that was unfortunately closed after half a km of steep descending. It was seriously closed too, not some half hearted sign, but cables that stretched the width of the road making it really hard to get around. So, back up the hill I went, grumbling a bit, but the environment was so nice it just didn’t matter. What’s a few extra kms anyway. I got back onto the EV7 and followed the signs.

I went through a small village where one family was sitting outside their house playing hide and seek. The eldest girl pleaded with me not to give her away as I rode past. A shoosh and a stare is international language for “say one word and I’ll decapitate you”. I resisted the urge, so my head is still attached. Then it was downhill to the river.

I got there and looked at the road and thought “oh yeah, I was warned about this”. Up and down we went for the next hour or so until the final downhill into Cesky Krumlov.

Nothing could prepare me for this. I’d read that it was nice, but today it was amazing. It’s relaxed, full of laid back tourists (as compared to Siena) and has a nice river that snakes around the town, which is towered over by stunning buildings.

I had a beer by the river and a small meal before wandering around for a while. I like this place.