My back wasn’t too bad this morning. I had breakfast at the hotel in the cavernous and almost deserted restaurant. I wondered what was happening as all of the staff were sitting at a table smoking cigarettes.
I sat at a table as far as I could get away from them and had a coffee and an omelette, all of which was surprisingly good. The hotel is surprisingly good too. It’s not that old and is slightly rough around the edges but is great.. you can’t argue with 29€ for accommodation and breakfast.
I had no phone reception as I can’t work out what my Albanian phone number is, so I planned my stops for the day, booked a hotel and downloaded the maps.me map of Northern Macedonia.
I planned my first stop at Valandovo. I left town amongst a stream of impatient Macedonians who just wanted to drive as close to me and as fast as they could. It’s no wonder that most have religious artefacts hanging from their rear vision mirrors. Anyone would have more faith in their god than their driving skills here but sadly, I don’t see it helping. The truckies on the other hand, were fantastic. I didn’t check what they hang from their mirrors.
I stopped to put on sunscreen, sun sleeves and gator as I knew it was going to be very sunny. As I was about to start again, two ebikers went past. We waved and nodded to each other. I caught them on the downhill and they went past on the next uphill – more smiles and waves. They seem like nice people – all cyclists are, right !
When I got into, Valandovo, I found a great looking cafe and was parking my bike when I noticed the two cyclists from before. They invited me to have coffee with them. I told you they were nice people ! A few questions later, we worked out that Mira and Miodrag’s son is living in Brisbane. They’re Serbian and they love the Sunshine Coast , Gold Coast, Moreton Island etc. They showed me their photos from their last trip there.
They’re staying in Star Dojran and doing some daily rides in the area. They’re such nice people too. Mira said she doesn’t speak much English, but I swear she understood every word. Thanks again folks. Great to meet you. Enjoy your holiday, and Thanks !!
As I left the town, I stopped in a small place that serves Burek. They young guy there, spoke great english and insisted I have the burek with buttermilk – a yoghurt drink. It was delicious. There was also an old guy having a rest at one of the tables and he was on for a chat. He finished up with “goodbye my friend, good journey”
I also saw a guy who had angle parked his tractor perfectly between cars, reverse out and be on his way. He probably came into town for some lunch. It looked hilarious.
From there, my next stop would be Demir Kapija but I’d have about 17kms on a dirt road. It was blissful but it started as a rocky, bumpy track. It got dramatically better with the only issues being overhanging branches and water lying across it. It was so nice not being on a busy road, and it felt remote, even if there was a train line metres away, then a river and a main road not far beyond that.
The road eventually became sealed not far before Demir Kapija as it made its way through a rocky narrow gorge. I stopped in town for some refreshments and continued.
As I left, I realised that I was just ahead of a storm heading up the valley and behind another going in the same direction. I had to put an effort in, to stay in front of it, and in the sunshine, but then I had to also slow down so I wouldn’t ride into the next one. Sometimes, there’s a delicate balance to staying dry.
As I neared Negotino, I turned off onto a dirt road that had been shaped by rains and had dried out, so I bounced and bumbled my way to the outskirts, then found the hotel.
My next job was to solve my phone issues, and with the great help of the manager, we worked it out. The result is that I’ll have connectivity over the next few weeks in the Western Balkans. Very happy about that.
This was a fantastic day of cycling, seeing things and meeting and talking to people along the way. It’s what happens on a bike tour.