Time to leave the YHA in Nelson and it seemed like everyone in the dorm room was doing the same. I’d finished my breakfast and made the mistake of asking a guy where he was riding too today. He’d brought his helmet to breakfast, so I should have realised that he was just seeking attention.
When I told him where I was heading (the Maungatapu trail), he launched. “I did that yesterday, it’s unrideable. I walked for 20kms and wore out my brakes” (that doesn’t make sense – it’s a 4-5km uphill and the same down the other side). He also told me I had no mountain bike skills and my bike was too heavy. (He wouldn’t know). He asked if I had panniers and I said no. “Ah, so you’re just doing a day trip”. (Of course I’m not). What a strange guy. I stopped listening and walked away.
When we were loading our bikes, he continually muttered that my bike looked heavy (good on you champ, nobody cares what you think). He then revealed that he’d only ridden road bikes and had fallen off four times on this trip “mainly in muddy sections”, but showed me some massive bruising on his upper arm.
On the trail later, I was talking to a TA rider, Steve, about the guy at the hostel trying to talk me out of today’s trail. He’d met him on the ride in the north island and told me that the guy, Daryl, had drifted off into oncoming traffic for no apparent reason, crashed and was taken to Wanganui hospital. …and then it all made sense.
I’m so glad I didn’t let his horror stories change my opinion. I would have missed out on a sensational day. On tour, people are always offering advice but it’s rare that it suits your situation perfectly. Context is everything and you should just do what you think is right. Besides, I’d have been disappointed if I hadn’t gone this way.
The ride was one of the first I’d had with loads of native vegetation. It reminded me of parts of the Bicentennial National Trail through the Wollemi near Sydney. The hike-a-bike certainly reminded me of it. It was a big effort to get to the top, and I really had to concentrate to get a loaded bike down the tricky and rocky (in parts) descent.
Gee it was steep on the way up. 20-25% gradients were the most common, and while it was a big effort, I’m pleased I did the trail in this direction as the descent was marginally less steep on that side.
There’s something calming about having a big physical task ahead of you, and methodically getting stuck into it, then seeing the results as you near the end. (Sounds like your average day of cycletouring).
To be honest, the Maungatapu Trail would be the queen stage in the Tour de Testosterone and while some people probably hit it for six, just completing it is an achievement. And I didn’t fall off or walk any more than 4kms, so I’m very happy indeed. I also met and spoke to five really interesting people while on the trail.
At Pelorus Bridge, there’s a cafe that closes at 3:30pm. I couldn’t remember if it was 3 or 3:30pm and had no signal to check. By this stage, I was craving some lunch that wasn’t just a wrap with peanut butter. I would have made it to the cafe easily in time, but I stopped and talked so much along the way.
I thought the last 10kms were flat or downhill and expected to speed through that section. Unfortunately, ‘NZ downhill and flat’ means lot of little ups and downs which are energy sapping at best and exhausting after a time. 3pm came and went, and I pinned my hopes of a late lunch on the 3:30pm closing time.
3:30pm it was and I made it by 10 minutes. Just in time for coffee, a pie and an ice cream. Ahhhh, that was so nice after that ride.
I was staying at the campground here, so I collected my sticker “to be stuck to the front of your vehicle”. It went on the front forks of the green machine. I then followed the signs to the campground not sure what to expect. What unfolded was one of the best campsites I’ve had here. It’s beside a fast flowing stream which is an ideal swimming spot. Jumping in at the right place, sends you down the rapids for 20 metres and if you swim a few metres across, there’s an eddy flowing in the opposite direction. It takes you back to the start. Hours of fun there. Others were floating downstream on tubes with the water temp surprisingly warm.
I emerged refreshed, knowing that tomorrow, I had only 50kms to finish this tour of the south island.
On the trail, I’d stopped and spoken to Sophie, a hiker doing part of the TA. She made it into camp and we talked about hiking and biking stuff while preparing equally fast, nutritious but ultimately boring, bulky dinners. My ‘go to’ meal is an entree of packet soup followed by a satchet of flavoured rice with some veggies and tuna. Sound appetising ? It’s remarkable how nice it tastes after a hard day.
Sounds like a great trip John. Pity you had to cut it short!
Dennis