I didn’t want to get out of bed today, but realised I had to. Burgos was just under 70kms away. Over a breakfast of tostada and coffee, I noticed that today’s ride was on a bike route nearly all the way with a gentle uphill gradient for the first 47kms. Traffic free cycling is always better, even though the Spanish drivers have been great.
As I packed the bike, it began to rain, so I grabbed the poncho and headed for the bakery. It was run by lady from Cuba who wished me all the best for my journey. The rain stopped when I left town and I wouldn’t see it again until almost in Burgos.
Outside town, the GPS told me to turn right and go up a dodgy-looking and steep dirt trail. I envisaged a muddy dirt trail for the rest of the day – some bike route ! After all the rain we’d had, I wasn’t looking forward to it. The map said the trail crossed the road I was on, not too far ahead, so I thought I’d have another look then and stayed on the road.
When I got there, it wasn’t just crossing the road, there was a bridge over it. I saw a perfect rail rail trail in good condition, so I scrambled up the next track and got going. It was just what I needed – an easy way through the remaining hills – with my still tired legs from yesterday.
The first part was full of tunnels through amazing rocky outcrops like some of yesterday’s scenery. After the town of Oña, the valley widened out into farmland. That was the pattern for most of the morning.
I passed by many small villages and some were really dilapidated. They had character and old world charm but not much else. That was a bit like the disused railway stations that dotted the route. Most were covered in graffiti. Hopefully someone can take care of these lovely old buildings at some time soon.
As I neared the top of climb – 47kms of gradual uphill, the trail got steeper and the terrain became rocky again, before opening out on a plain for the downhill to Burgos.
I sat in the sun near the old station at Sotopalacios and finished my food. That was the last of the warmth though. Pretty soon I had to put on the rain jacket to keep out the biting wind.
As I neared Burgos it rained heavily and the temperature dropped I felt so cold but after a few kms, I found the hostel and warmed up.
Burgos is a nice place. The cathedral is stunning and the whole precinct was full of people. It’s also the coldest City in Spain.
The next 10 days look really cold and quite wet, so I’m looking at options to get to Portugal. Let’s worry about that tomorrow.
