I’d been aware all week that today would be the ride of truth. It would also be good training for my legs and my head. Past experience has taught me not to psyche myself out of climbing – it’s an old habit of mine.
I’m tired right now and looking forward to a rest day in Sapa. I hope one is enough. It’s been a full week of riding and plenty climbing already. Hence a little bit of angst on my part. I shouldn’t have been concerned as I’d been getting up the hills fine so far – just sitting, spinning and putting in minimal effort.
So, today … The weather would be clearing, and an early start would have been counter productive. I was out the door of the Putaleng at about 8:20 and headed for the nice coffee shop down the road. Of course there was a table full of guys who looked at me like I was from Mars. They turned out to be great, smiling for a photo when I left. They also left me with “You are welcome in Vietnam”. I secretly hoped that they were truck drivers who would now be kinder to cyclists.
I stopped for the safety net of an egg Banh Mi on the way out of town. Another excellent choice. As I had an annoying climb to get back to the main road, I left the water bottles empty to make it easier and filled up at the junction – but the climb turned out to be very easy. Maybe I’m getting fit.
Then it was onto the daunting climb, and really, I loved every minute. Sure, there was plenty of sections over 10-12% but I took it easy and put in minimal effort to the top.
As I neared the summit, I could see the more bizarre constructions that had been made for tourists. There was a out-from-a-cliff glass walkway with a super long lift to the bottom.
Further on were the usual things built at viewpoints. The viewpoints were fenced off and I didn’t bother paying the admission fees to look at the magnificent valley that I’d just ridden up.
I thought I’d grab a coffee at the top as reward, but the restaurant was fenced off as well. I felt I was heading into tourist central and there was no escape.
The downhill was a welcome relief. It was strange not to pedal after hours of chugging up the hill. There were more good views to be had as I descended and I was thankful for today’s sunny weather.
I came around a corner and my road disappeared into a mess of tourist coaches, taxis and crowds. I was getting close. So, I stopped for a rest and a coffee before navigating the streets of Sapa to my hotel.
I didn’t find it, but having warned them of my imminent arrival by bike, they saw me and flagged me down. That’s good service and a relief, as there’s no sign.
They wanted me to lock my bike on the street but I refused. The compromise was put it beside the lift, so later I took the back wheel – the expensive bit of the bike – and put it in my room, along with my saddle.