Vlorë to Himarë

Today’s ride on Komoot

I left full of trepidation for the day. While I’m looking forward to taking some time off in Sarande, I have a mountain pass to negotiate at just over 1000 metres – and I’m approaching it from sea level

Sorry for the numbers, but today will have more than 1500 metres of climbing and that’s about three times what I’m used to. Worse still, is the steep section near the top. As if I won’t be fatigued enough by then.

I said goodbye to the nice people who run the Villa and went into town in search of sustenance and cash. This is a cash country and the cash machines all charge between 5 and 8 euros for the privilege. Then there’s my own bank fees and currency conversion. I realise how easy it was in the EU countries.

Leaving Vlorë

I stopped in Orikum for some lunch but the bakery only had cakes and croissants. It looked so nice that I sat down for a coffee and croissants, my typical Italian breakfast – at lunchtime.

Still going up this valley

Orikum seems surrounded by very steep, very big mountains so there’s no disguising the effort ahead.

With not too far to go on the main uphill, I stopped at a taverna for an omelette and a Pepsi. It was exactly what I needed, as well as the rest. Nothing prepared me for the magnificent view at the top. I wasn’t expecting ocean views but wow, wow, wow. The water was a kilometre below me, down some very steep slopes and the road downhill looked amazing – it was.

I couldn’t stop ogling at the views. The road seemed to wrap itself around the mountains and gradually make its way down – except when you are on the road, there was no ‘gradual’ about it. It felt like it was flat out. Even though there wasn’t much traffic, around most blind corners was some wannabe race car driver on the wrong side of the road. Still, it was huge fun and I couldn’t stop smiling the whole time.

Part of the massive downhill

The descent was still well above sea level, when I came to a turnoff for Himarë. Checking the route revealed that I had 24 hilly kilometres to go. I hadn’t noticed because the scale of the big hill made all others look insignificant but there were another 500 vert’s to go + that’s a days riding in uphills alone.

mmm…. It was nearly 5pm and I was knackered, so I decided to take it easy and walked up the steepest parts, of which there were many. After making it up the final hill, I coasted into town and found the BnB. More lovely and friendly people.

Hilly villages in the afternoon

The owner recommended a Greek restaurant in town and told me that she’s part of the Greek minority in Albania. In the south, the Greek influence is everywhere. I guess that stands to reason, but I wasn’t expecting it on this scale.

Even hillier

My only criticism of Himarë, is that like everywhere I seem to go in Albania, the roads have been dug up for resurfacing, so it too, is a dustbowl.

Himarë in the evening

2 thoughts on “Vlorë to Himarë”

  1. What an exceptional downhill that looked to be John – stunning pics as usual. Those last few days are probably the most serious climbing you’ve done since Laos hey?

    Totally loving this route!

    1. A lot of the last couple of weeks has reminded me of Laos – steep, huge mountains. And it continues in Greece and the islands but it’s worth every bit of effort.

      Glad you’re enjoying it

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