This was the day I had very mixed feelings about. I expected to see the beautiful hills of Laos, but where there’s hills, there’s pain, and there was more than 2000 verical metres of pain today.
In the end, the hills were quite manageable and the scenery was spectacular from the first turn of the pedals.
I went back to the same restaurant for an omelette and rice. Then it was down the hill and through the village where I thought I was last night. I definitely think it’s nicer up near the junction.
The uphill started immediately and for the rest of the ride, I simply took it as easy as possible and gawked at the unfolding landscape above and below.
It was always interesting to guess where the road went, as it snaked around the hills. Each time I went around a hill, I couldn’t believe the road would go higher, but for the first 16kms it did. After that, the downhill was nice in the cool air. Yes, cool !!! For the first time in months it was cool on the bike.
The town at the bottom of the hill had a nice river, but everything was pretty shabby. It’s a problem when you’re on a ‘major’ road, as any dirt becomes dust with passing traffic, and the dust covers everything. That was true of all of the villages on highway 13.
The villages clung precariously to the steep slope on one side of the road. The other side was usually too steep for any structures. There can’t have been much to do in the villages, because there were kids everywhere. I took no photos of them again but they were all charming and funny, save for a few surly adolescents lounging around on their motorbikes.
Later, on exiting one village, I heard some rustling in the bamboo above, and then a few small rocks hit the ground a few metres from me. I didn’t mind but I was surprised. In the next village, I passed a 4 year old who went to pick up a rock, but stopped when I pointed a finger and scowled at him. He immediately smiled and shouted Sabaidee !
The buses seem to be the kings of the road here and really push the limits. One passed me, then half an hour or so later it was stopped by the road as the driver repaired a wheel. I had a good chat to the 20-something Australians and Canadians standing around waiting. They passed me soon after with a couple of loud toots.
As always, I was pleased to get to the top, and find the recommended guesthouse. It’s pretty basic, but has a restaurant, so I didn’t really have to think after arriving. They do noodle soup and that’s it. I think I’ll have it for breakfast too.
Later, I had a walk around the small town which is also covered in dust and full of kids.It’s cold here. We’re at 1400 metres which is the same as Thredbo. I’m sitting in the open-air restaurant with shoes, socks, long trousers and three layers and still not warm.
An early night beckons. Tomorrow is less strenuous but after today’s efforts I expect to be a little tired. The reward at the end of tomorrow is a guesthouse with a verandah and views over the valley. From there, it should be two more days to the Plain of Jars in Phonsavan.
