I had muesli and coffee in my room after a slightly restless night. I didn’t like the guesthouse, not the people in it and not Chundzha particularly. Not that there’s anything wrong with the place.
I actually started the day with a better attitude than last night and I’m glad I did.
I was on the road around 8:30 and immediately thought “is that a headwind” ? It wasn’t. At worst today, it was a crosswind.
I had a decision to make at Charyn Canyon after 50kms. If I felt good, I’d look at the canyon, have lunch and head out. Otherwise I’d camp near the river down in the canyon.
My first job was to get some petrol for my stove. I stopped at the first gas station but it was literally just a gas station. That’s no good to me. There was a petrol station not far up the road. As I pulled in, there was a truck with a few horses in the back, saddled and ready to go. It looked so strange and I’d see them a few more times today.
I asked for 600ml of petrol for my stove. Initially the answer was no but pleading then begging always works and in a few minutes I had my fuel, more water and somehow, all was right with the world again, because I was now self sufficient.
Back on the road and it was dead straight, dead flat and dead flaming boring. It was meditative though. I came to a statue of a falcon, then dropped into a wide canyon and I assumed that this was the start of Charyn Canyon.
A bit further on, the map said I had a left turn which I wasn’t expecting. I didn’t expect a dirt road either. Initially it was fine. The change in direction meant I had a tailwind and I was moving along at the same pace as on the road.
It got a lot worse with lots of corrugations that completely covered the road and a few soft patches. I thought I’d probably get much worse roads later in the trip, so it didn’t bother me.
It dragged on and on and I was tired by the time I arrived at the entrance gates to the canyon around lunchtime and parked This Moment.
The canyon looked stunning from up above and I thought it’d be great to camp down near the river – decision made. Then I had to decide which overpriced food to get for lunch from a snack bar.
It was stinking hot. I didn’t want to be down in the canyon with no shade and crowds, so I stayed at the top for a few hours with crowds. I went for a walk to some of the viewpoints – stunning. There was also a restaurant that made a good coffee and I had a call with Cathie while letting the sun and heat die down.
Eventually, I made my way down the steep path to the walking path and rode into the canyon. It’s amazingly beautiful. That explains the crowds. I met some Polish guys who were just as amazed as I was at the scenery, and finally arrived at the river. Still plenty of people here though.
I noticed some backpackers with camping gear – Simona and Johanna form Italy and Germany, and talked with them. As the crowds thinned out and the sun disappeared, I looked for a campsite and surprisingly found a level grassed patch and got organised. I also met Sam and Natalie from the US who camped nearby.
Dinner was pasta with a tin of tuna and vegies and some pre-melted cheese, courtesy of leaving the bike in the sun for hours. The five of us sat in a shelter and talked before retiring.
