I slept very well in the peaceful canyon surrounds. Although the gushing river was noisy, it was calming as well. Last night was great talking to fellow travellers in English. What a change.
Muesli and nescafe for breakfast, then I packed up and made my way back up the 2.2km path to the tourist centre. It says 2.2k., but that’s to the base of the stairs. I took the track to the left, not that it was much easier. It was as steep as hell, so getting to the top was a relief, and went and got some water for the ride, from my new friends at the snack bar.
I went around to the other snack bar to get a sandwich and bumped into Simona and Johanna, so we chatted for a few minutes. Johanna asked about my sandals and pedals and I looked down at the bike and noticed my fuel bottle was missing. The day had been going so well, too.
I rushed back down the 2.2kms to the camp area without the bike, hoping that the bottle was still there and that nobody had done anything stupid with it.
Success, it was still sitting where I left it
I then went to the ranger’s hut and bought a ticket to the top in one of their little minibuses. After 20 minutes, I got in the bus and was soon at the top – more than an hour later than I should have been.
So, I loaded up with some food – 2nd breakfast. It was only 30 or 40kms to Kokpek where I was intending to get some lunch.
The delay was significant though, after 20 minute, a fresh wind sprung up, and aver the next 20, it turned ferocious until I was crawling even though it was still largely a crosswind.
Then came the turn directly into it with a straight stretch of 25kms, with no windbreaks and almost no vegetation. This is the Kazahk Steppe !
Ten km/hr was all I could do, and the crazy drivers whizzed by as I struggled to keep the bike straight at all times. Kokpek couldn’t come quick enough.
When I got there, I had a delicious meal of Kurda – slow cooked beef with potatoes and onions. It was beautiful and filling. There was rain predicted so over lunch I managed to book a hotel in Shellek. I didnt want to camp in this wind, and get wet too ! Outside it was still howling, but I had a downhill coming up.
I had to pedal to go downhill, such was the force of the wind but as I emerged from the valley, there were signs of the wind abating just a little. I emerged into open space again, turned at right angles, but the wind bent around the mountains and gave me very little respite.
With 20kms to go, I stopped for a drink and snack by the side of the road and had a video call with my brother, Paul. It was great to talk and as we spoke, the wind died down considerably. Thanks Paul !
After that, I got going and enjoyed the flat early evening run into Shellek not withstanding the few kms on the freeway.
As I came into the small town, I realised that they had ripped up the roads for resurfacing, so it was a dry, dusty, mess but I’m sure it’ll be very nice soon.
The people at the hotel were nice, and there was a restaurant as well. After 85kms I to the wind, I was completely cooked, so I simply cleaned up, ate and slept