I woke today feeling very sleepy, if that makes any sense. Perhaps it was the soak in the hot springs that had that effect or perhaps it was the knowledge that I’m only 2 days away from Khorog and an Indian meal.
I tend to relax towards the very end of a section of a tour so the last day or two are usually slow for me. It’s exactly the same now. I’ve done the hardest part of this trip and I’m going to have 2-3 days off to try and recover for the journey to Dushanbe. After that, depending on fatigue, I’ll reassess my options. My diary only has an entry for the end of August in the Greek Isles where I’m meeting up with the kids and today my mind was exploring the options with a priority on rest and recuperation. It’ll be 5 months on the road in a week and a half, and after the cold and high elevation of the last week, I’m definitely feeling it.
Today was the first day for a week that I’ve been below 4000 metres all day. Tonight I’m sleeping at 2557m, and the breathing is easy … It really makes a difference for me.
I went to the kitchen for breakfast and the lady asked me if I’d like some eggs. Yes please. 2 please. Only 2 ? No, you need more. 3 or 4 ? Ok 4 please. Ah much better
After breakfast at the hostel, I packed and left still feeling sleepy and so it was for the first couple of hours. I spent them dodging potholes, waving to kids and adults alike and marvelling at the mountains and the valley I was following … and talking to the many cyclists coming the other way.
It was cold at first but warmed up eventually. Soon, I was down to shorts and two thin top layers. It felt like forever since I had worn shorts. It was probably a week and a half, but my amazing experiences in that time had the effect of slowing things down and making it feel much longer than it was.
I was still feeling sleepy until well after lunch. The terrain was quite similar too. Stunning and amazing but similar – towering rocky mountains. All of this had the effect of making the day feel slower to me.
There were a few small shops along the way where I got a cold drink or two. Nutella on bread was lunch again along with plenty of nuts and dried fruit.
For me, the day continued slowly. I hesitate to say it dragged on because everything about being here is amazing. Maybe it was the warmth or the thicker air or the easier riding, but it was definitely slow. I savoured every bend in the valley that revealed more stunning mountains. At every bend, I had the thought of – what’s next ? What else is this valley going to reveal ?
There were some storms about but they seemed to not bother about my road. They headed for the higher mountains where I could see the rain coming down. It’s crazy to think that there are many rain storms that pass over here while the terrain is absolutely bone dry. There’s a gushing river that rushes down the valley too. Water everywhere, but still everything is dry and dusty.
There were more and more villages as well. I had picked out a spot from iOverlander just off the road in a fairly idyllic spot. It was only a kilometre or so from a village, so I stopped at the small supermarket for a few things, and some water. I discovered they had a selection of beer and I couldn’t resist. I hadn’t seen beer on sale in any shops for a while (although, one shop in Murghab had the same).
Back on the bike, I followed the dot on my phone to the turnoff for the camp spot, but missed it, doubled back and checked my phone again. That got the attention of a kid just riding around, so I asked him if it was ok to camp nearby and got the thumbs up. It’s hardly stealth camping but people here don’t mind you camping anywhere – at least that’s my experience. If I were back home in Aus, I’m sure every man and his dog would tell me it’s against the rules but the relaxed Tajiks seem to feel proud that you chose their country to travel through and show an amazing level of respect to bike travellers. (I can get used to that 😁).
I went down a narrow track to reveal an almost perfect site – hidden behind trees, level, grassy with a small narrow stream running by. What a fantastic spot. I got my chair out but didn’t get a chance for the beer as three 15 year olds turned up to see what I was doing. They were nice talkative kids who soon left and I then settled back in my chair and enjoyed a relaxing beer in the shade by the stream. It doesn’t get better, winding down like this.
The kids returned after I’d pitched the tent and was making dinner. They seemed to take pity on me. One offered to go and get me some eggs. They couldn’t believe that I was happy with noodles and vegies. They were really good kids and we talked for a while with lots of questions about my trip and the logistics involved.
After they left, I cleaned up and went to bed
Another great day. Again, I’d stop and remind myself that I’m on the Pamir Highway and to just soak it all in.
With only 40kms to Khorog, I was looking forward to civilisation tomorrow.