Heading north – Dushanbe to Panjakent

I decided to get another share taxi from Dushanbe to Panjakent. I’m probably relaxing after the Pamirs and really didn’t feel like a big few days to get over the mountains to the north. It’s also warming up considerably, so laziness won the day today.

The car was set to arrive at 10am but I knew that people here, do things whenever they want regardless of the customer. The prime example is sorting out a time for breakfast in a homestay.

What time would you like breakfast ?

Is 7am ok ?

mmmm (hesitation, not wanting to say no) 8am ?

How about 7:30am ?

Ok. 7:30am

… and invariably breakfast is served at 8am precisely

So, with this in mind, I made sure I was packed and ready, 45 minutes early at 9:15. 

At 9:20am, he turned up.

For the whole day, he drove like he was running late for a date. Panjakent couldn’t come soon enough for both of us.

We drove through the infamous Anzob Tunnel. I’d read the horror stories. No ventilation, no lights, potholes, water, mad drivers…

Thankfully, none of that was true anymore. The lighting wasn’t great, but there was some. We had the windows up so the ventilation didn’t bother me, and although there was water on the road and dripping through, the surface was fine.

It was fine enough for Fangio himself to continue to want to pass people and generally continue to drive like a moron. I think the tunnel has had some work. What a letdown.

It was mainly downhill after that.

I saw about 8 cyclists on the road and spoke to two of them when Fangio stopped to feed himself. Panjakent appeared and he eventually dropped me at the hostel after he kept refusing to agree with the map on my phone. Raised voices and for once, Google was correct.

Then he asked for more money than was agreed but a quick phone call solved that and we were friends again by the time he left. It was touch and go though.

The hostel was super friendly and had just the right amount of travellers for loads of stories and good conversations.

I walked into town, got some fruit which was so nice, I ate it and had to get more later, for breakfast.

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