Today was mainly downhill but there was a small matter of Ak Baital Pass, the highest on the trip at 4650m.
The first of two steep sections had me walking and breathless – after all, there’s nearly 45% less air at 4650m. I counted steps between stops to catch my breath, switched to counting breaths but nothing made a difference. I simply had to make progress of sorts, no matter how small.
There was a reprieve for a few kms as it flattened out through a beautiful, stark valley, snow capped mountains on each side and a stream hurrying down the mountain.
The next steep section had me walking again until things levelled out a bit as I neared the top.
Ralf and Marion had left early. Cameron had left after me and was flying at this stage. Very kindly, Ralf and Marion waited for me at the top – it speaks volumes to how nice they are. We didn’t linger and got into the downhill with a plan to stop for a coffee – a John special, real ground filter coffee – when it made sense.
The downhill treated us to amazing valley views. I was still pinching myself that I had just cleared Ak Baital and was continuing along the Pamir Hwy, heading to Murghab.
We had coffee out of the wind by a nice clear stream, very proud of ourselves but also well aware that we had 73kms to go. Yes it was downhill, but still a fair way to go after midday.
Off we went, flying down the gentle slopes until we had descended about 500m and breathing was much easier.
We met a couple of cyclists during the afternoon, one from Japan and one from India. Chatting to another cyclist is a good opportunity for a short rest for both sides.
It was quite cool and there were storms about, so the winds were changeable but the flat and generally downhill roads meant that we couldake it to Murghab comfortably.
In Karakul, they seemed to keep the same time as Kyrgyzstan and called it Murghab time, so I was surprised to arrive in Murghab and find out that they used Dushanbe time like the rest of the country.
Arriving in Murghab, the others could t decide where to stay. I’d heard of only one place here, so when I saw it, I decided to stop and Ralf and Marion chose to stay elsewhere. I was at the Pamir Hotel, initially in a yurt as that was all that was available, but as the afternoon wore on, it was freezing. I asked again for a room or a heater and later during dinner in the restaurant at the hotel, they came and offered me a room – very happy.
Whole in the yurt – Charles the Frenchman walked in, so I spent time talking with him about what he’d done (almost kidnapped or mugged in Osh), as well as having a meal with Frank and Camilla who were staying in the yurt.